Natural Wines - November 2020

No style of wine receives such attention (or causes such radical debate) as natural wine. Beloved by many, critiqued by some, and above all, misunderstood by most, the category of natural wine seems to breed more and more confusion as the days go on. This month, we’re going to change that.

So what exactly makes a wine ‘natural?’ Honestly, the answer isn’t that simple. Believe it or not, the most controversial argument surrounding natural wine comes down to what it actually is. Although the definition varies from person to person, most passionate aficionados will agree that natural wine is, at minimum, produced from organically and/or biodynamically-farmed grapes, vinified with native yeasts, and crafted with a ‘minimalist’ mentality in the cellar, meaning that nothing is added or taken away. (This usually means that the processes of fining and filtering are eschewed, too.)

One of the bigger natural wine world debates centers around the topic of sulfites. Purists will say that adding sulfites upon bottling is technically not natural, though many natural wine producers will happily admit to partaking in the practice. No matter which side you stand on, it’s imperative to know that sulfites are a naturally occurring byproduct of fermentation, meaning that there’s actually no such thing as a sulfite-free wine. On the contrary, sulfites can actually be beneficial to wine, as they act as a natural preservative. Additionally, sulfites also get a bad reputation for ‘causing headaches/hangovers,’ which is absolutely not true, unless you are allergic (and in that case, you wouldn’t be able to eat french fries, dried fruits, or basically every other pre-packaged food out there).

At Verve Wine, we love natural wine. However, we (myself included) are always clear that labeling something as ‘natural’ is not an excuse for flaws in wine, including excess volatile acidity, brettanomyces, ‘mousiness,’ and beyond. We hold our natural wines to the same standards that we do any other bottle. In order to have a home on our shelf, the wine must be sustainably produced, reflect the place from which it comes, and above all, taste really good. With all of those things in mind, this is what you can expect from this month’s Natural Wine Box.

We’re starting this month’s tour in Germany’s Württemberg region with a delicious, white field blend from Jochen Beurer. This ex-BMX champion is breathing new life into this southerly German region. Jochen’s passion for biodynamic farming, minimalist winemaking, and cultivating varieties beyond Riesling set him apart from many of his neighbors. As a person, he’s soft-spoken and nurturing, yet wildly intelligent and vibrant – so it’s no surprise that his wines encompass the same energy.

Next up, we’ve got a varietal Carignan from Railsback Frères. If you’ve been following us for some time, you know that our love for Eric and Lyle Railsback knows no limits. These dynamic brothers continue to shed light on the untapped potential for French-inspired natural wine in Santa Barbara. Their ‘Cuvée Speciale’ Carignan is inspired by the great Maxime Magnon and is carbonically macerated, fruit-driven, and almost too easy to drink.

Cheers!
Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier