Oregon - June 2019

Over the last few decades, the Pacific Northwest has become one of the most dynamic wine- producing regions in the United States. Characterized by mountainous and rugged terrain, cooler nights, and varying soil types, this corner of the world is remarkably special when it comes to viticulture. For this month’s TGT, I want to take us on a journey through Oregon’s vibrant winemaking scene, where innovation, sustainability, and good wine are in no short supply.

First, a little history. Wine has been made in Oregon for about 175 years, but production really became significant during the mid-20th century. As with most domestic winemaking, two World Wars and a thing called Prohibition put a serious dent in the region’s viticultural growth. Although it eventually began to revive in the 1960s, by 1970, only five commercial wineries operated within the state. However, 10 short years later, Oregon established some of the country’s first AVAs. The 1990s presented some interesting viticultural challenges, including the potential threat of phylloxera, but winemakers acted quickly, switching to resistant rootstocks to prevent infestation. Today, Oregon is the fourth largest wine-producing state in America, boasting over 725 wineries.

More than 1,050 vineyards across three major growing areas comprise Oregon’s viticultural scene. . The Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon AVAs are both fully contained within the state’s borders, but the state’s third major growing area, the Columbia Gorge, straddles the border between Washington and Oregon. In total, more than 11,000 hectares in Oregon are dedicated to vines, producing about 3 million cases of wine annually. For a relatively young wine region, the rapid rate of growth the state has seen is pretty impressive!

Regionality plays a huge role in understanding Oregon’s winemaking culture. The Willamette Valley has pretty much become the state’s claim to viticultural fame, spanning from the Columbia River in the north to Eugene in the south. The region is surround- ed by a slew of mountain ranges and is dominated by rather mild temperatures year-round. Winters are cool and wet while summers are dry and hot, and volcanic, basalt-based soils line the vineyards. The region is divided into six sub-AVAs: Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Van Duzer, and Yamhill-Carlton District. As a whole, the Willamette Valley is home to about two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries, making it the most concentrated AVA within the state.

Southern Oregon is comprised of just two sub-AVAs: the Rogue Valley and the Umpqua Valley, the latter of which is the oldest post-Prohibition growing region within the state. The Rogue Valley is about 60 miles long and is known for being Oregon’s warmest and driest viticultural zone. The Columbia Gorge AVA straddles its namesake river, encompassing both Hood River and Wasco counties.

Here, strong winds and low rainfall (due to its location within the rain shadow of Mount Hood and Mount Adams) create an insane number of microclimates, making it one of the most diverse growing regions in the Pacific Northwest.

There’s no denying that Pinot Noir has become the state’s sweetheart variety, garnering serious praise from industry professionals worldwide. As much as I love the unique, soil-driven expressions of Oregon Pinot, the state’s vibrant viticultural scene goes so much further than that. Growers statewide are putting out insanely delicious bottles of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, all full of texture, complexity, and terroir-reflective qualities. Gamay is also seeing a renaissance in the state, and for those who love Gewurztraminer, Muller- Thurgau, and other cool-climate varieties, looking to Oregon is a pretty safe bet. Even Sangiovese, Tempranillo, and other European red varieties are finding a home here!

Because of its latitude, soil types, and overall growing conditions, Oregon is often compared to Burgundy, but I prefer to appreciate it for the one-of-a-kind place that it is. Optimal growing conditions make it a hotbed for good wine production, with organic farming, sustainability, and minimal intervention remaining at the forefront of production. I couldn’t be more excited about what’s going on in Oregon and I truly hope you enjoy exploring the magic of the PNW via this month’s box.

Cheers!

Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier