Outer Boroughs of Italy - March 2019

When it comes to the wine ‘greats,’ we’ll always have France and Italy. However, in the world of renowned wine, doesn’t it always seem like the former is discussed more than the latter? For this month’s edition of The Grand Tour, I not only want to shed light on the wines of Europe’s beloved ‘boot,’ but also hone in a bit more on those ‘outer borough’ regions. Don’t get me wrong, I love Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello just as much as anyone else; but, when it comes to Italy, there’s so much more than just those three ‘big Bs.’

For the sake of switching it up, let’s start from the south. In my opinion, Sicily is to Italy what Corsica is to France. Sure, it’s technically part of the larger country, but its isolation from the mainland gives the island a distinctly different feel, thanks to cultural, gastronomical, and even language differences. Basically, Sicily is like an even more complex Italy, and is filled with rich history, world class gastronomy, and winemaking roots deeper than you can imagine. Here, local varieties such as Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Carricante, and Catarratto give way to mineral-laced, terroir-driven bottles oozing with a serious sense of place. The western coast of the island is also home to Marsala, known for its fortified wine production. And if you dig a little deeper, more hidden gems (perhaps even something sparkling!) are just waiting to be found.

Our next wine brings us to Friuli, the northeasternmost region of the country. Here, winemaking and gastronomy are heavily influenced by the neighboring countries of Austria and Slovenia, and white wine dominates the region’s production. To the north, Friuli is bordered by the Alps, and to the south, the Adriatic Sea, both of which create distinct microclimates in the vineyards. Most of Friuli’s vines are found in the southern half of the region, where there are warm days and cooler nights. Friuli is best known for its Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo, and Refosco production, though many international varieties, as well as other native Italian grapes, are also cultivated. The majority of Friulian wines are vinified varietally, meaning that the wines are crafted from a single grape variety. Many of the region’s wine labels also depict the word ‘ronco, ’ which means ‘terraced hillside’ in the local dialect.

Drive about seven hours south down Italy’s crystalline Adriatic coast, and you’ll find yourself in Abruzzo-- yes, the same region from which the grape ‘Montepulciano d’Abruzzo’ derives its name (not to be confused with the town in Tuscany). This coastal region is bordered by Molise, Marche, and Lazio, and it’s characterized by mountainous terrain. The Apennine mountains dot the region’s western border, and to the east, the Adriatic Sea moderates the region’s Mediterranean climate. White wine production is dominated by the Trebbiano grape, while most red wine production is based on, you guessed it, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

Nestled between Rome and Tuscany is Umbria, where we’ll conclude this month’s ‘outer borough’ tour. Despite its proximity, and rather similar climate, to Tuscany, Umbria only produces about a third of the amount of wine as its more popular neighbor. In Umbria, winters are rainy and cold, while summers are sunny and dry. The region is also characterized by abundant green hills and historical hilltop villages. White wines are mostly made from Trebbiano and Grechetto, while the region’s best known reds come from Montefalco, and are produced from the powerful Sagrantino variety. These wines tend to show exceptional ageability and food friendliness, thanks to the grape’s prominent tannins and robust structure.

Sticking to the classics is always a safe bet in the world of Italian wine, but why play it safe when there are so many exciting ‘outer boroughs’ to discover?

Cheers!

Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier