Santa Barbara - April 2019

California will always hold a special place in my heart. Although younger than many of our Old World favorites, to me, California has already earned its spot as one of ‘the classics’-- and I only foresee the wines getting better with time. From grape varieties, to growing regions, to a multitude of vineyard sites and microclimates, the variation across the Golden State couldn’t be more exciting. With this month’s TGT, I want to hone in on one of my favorite growing regions of all time: Santa Barbara County.

Santa Barbara may have gained a huge boost in fame from the movie Sideways, but the region’s viticultural significance goes much deeper than just cinema. As with most of California, grapes were first planted in Santa Barbara by missionaries in the late 1700s. Some 250 years later, post Prohibition and two World Wars, the region’s winemaking scene saw a serious revival, becoming a prominent player within the state’s viticultural game. Today, Santa Barbara is home to over 200 wineries!

The larger Santa Barbara region is broken down into six AVAs: Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos, and Happy Canyon. Santa Barbara’s most unique and defining geographical characteristic is that it is the longest east to west valley on the Pacific Coast, which is where the film Sideways gets its name from. This distinct layout creates ideal conditions for producing high-quality, cool-climate wines.

Santa Maria Valley became an established AVA back in 1981, making it Santa Barbara’s first designated appellation within the larger Santa Barbara AVA. It was here that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were first planted, creating ageworthy and aromatic wines brimming with zesty acidity. Santa Ynez Valley is spread across 30 miles, making it the largest AVA within Santa Barbara. Los Olivos, a relaxed, ‘old school’ town, is known for its uniform alluvial soils. The Sta. Rita Hills, located in the western part of Santa Ynez, is characterized by calcareous soils, which create Burgundian like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Ballard Canyon is surprisingly dominated by Syrah (50%) and other Rhone varieties, which benefit from large diurnal temperature swings. Happy Canyon is the easternmost AVA within Santa Barbara, characterized by hot temperatures, late-ripening grapes, and dense, fruit-forward wines.

Santa Barbara’s wine regions are found between two mountain ranges, with elevations ranging up to 3,400 feet. This topography allows for a consistently cool climate across the region, with loads of microclimates scattered amongst the various AVAs. Cooling Pacific breezes, as well as fog, penetrate most of the county, with Happy Canyon remaining the warmest of them all. The region’s main soil types range from limestone, to clay loam, to diatomaceous earth (DE). This melting pot of growing conditions creates vastly different wines, each one depicting a serious sense of place.

Over 50 grape varieties are planted in Santa Barbara, though the region is most highly regarded for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The region’s cooler temperatures preserve naturally high acidity within the grapes, leading to elegant, structured wines that are often compared to some of Europe’s best. Santa Barbara has also become a hotbed for Rhone varieties (Grenache, Syrah, and Viognier), as well as a smattering of Bordeaux varieties. Even Sangiovese, Pinot Gris, and Riesling are finding a home within the region! When it comes to California, there’s always something new to be discovered.

Cheers!
Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier