Volcanic Wines - October 2020

When it comes to viticulture and vinification, soil composition is a pretty hot topic. Soils, bedrock, and the components found within them are literally the foundational pieces that build our favorite wines. There’s a reason why certain grapes thrive in different regions around the world, and dirt has a lot to do with it. Coupled with climate, topography, and other geographical conditions, a region’s soil (as crazy as it sounds) plays a huge part in what makes up the essence of its terroir.

Volcanic wines have been getting a lot of buzz lately, and it’s really no surprise why. These wines come from some of the most unique corners of the globe and are hands-down some of the most earth-driven (and delicious) juices to drink. So what exactly classifies a wine as ‘volcanic?’ Simply put: volcanic soils.

Volcanic soils are formed from volcanic material, which encompasses everything from lava to ash and everything in between. The most common components of volcanic soils are black basalt (cooled lava), pumice, and ash. These soils are extremely high in minerals, which keep soils healthy and make them conducive for grape growing. Volcanic soils are also quite alluvial, which means that they provide excellent drainage for the vines. Low water retention allows vines to penetrate deep into the earth, which helps them to pull even more nutrients from deeper-lying bedrock.

This perfect marriage of low water retention and deep roots creates lower-yielding vines, which, in turn, produce lesser amounts of concentrated and higher quality fruit (when farmed responsibly, of course). Quality over quantity has always been a life motto in my book, and this mentality towards viticulture is no exception. This month, I want to take us on a journey through some of my favorite volcanic regions of the world: Yamhill County (Oregon), Etna, the Côte Roannaise, and the Canary Islands.

First up, we’ve got a delicious Chardonnay from Ribbon Ridge, which is the smallest AVA in all of Oregon. Here, volcanic soils and Pacific influences create unique conditions for cultivating soil-driven Chardonnay, most of which is dry-farmed. Brick House has been certified organic since 1990 and has since become certified biodynamic by Demeter, too. I absolutely love the rocky undertones and tangible texture found in this well-balanced bottle. If you’re looking for a Chard to please the masses, this is one of your best bets.

Next, we’re in Mount Etna, Sicily’s most well-known region and undeniably explosive claim to fame. When I think Etna, my brain usually goes straight to reds and whites, but this rosé is a game-changer. I truthfully don’t drink rosé as much as I should, but when I do, I tend to steer towards more savory expressions. This ashy, earth-driven bottle from Graci does the trick every time.